000			04809nam a2200649 454500
001			184048
003			IT-RoAPU
005			20250106150217.0
006			m|||||o||d||||||||
007			cr || ||||||||
008			240625t20162016nyu fo d z eng d
019			_a(OCoLC)954203961
019			_a(OCoLC)959845164
020			_a9780231175043 _qprint
020			_a9780231542968 _qPDF
024	7		_a10.7312/mars17504 _2doi
035			_a(DE-B1597)9780231542968
035			_a(DE-B1597)478134
035			_a(OCoLC)979739693
040			_aDE-B1597 _beng _cDE-B1597 _erda
072		7	_aLIT004120 _2bisacsh
082	0	4	_a820.9/3564 _223
084			_aonline - DeGruyter
100	1		_aMarshik, Celia _eautore
245	1	0	_aAt the Mercy of Their Clothes : _bModernism, the Middlebrow, and British Garment Culture / _cCelia Marshik.
264		1	_aNew York, NY : _bColumbia University Press, _c[2016]
264		4	_c©2016
300			_a1 online resource (264 p.) : _b24 b&w illustrations
336			_atext _btxt _2rdacontent
337			_acomputer _bc _2rdamedia
338			_aonline resource _bcr _2rdacarrier
347			_atext file _bPDF _2rda
490	0		_aModernist Latitudes
505	0	0	_tFrontmatter -- _tContents -- _tList of Illustrations -- _tAcknowledgments -- _tIntroduction: At the Mercy of Their Clothes -- _t1. What Do Women Want? -- _t2. Wearable Memorials: -- _t3. Aspiration to the Extraordinary: -- _t4. Serialized Selves -- _tCoda: -- _tNotes -- _tBibliography -- _tIndex
506	0		_arestricted access _uhttp://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_16ec _fonline access with authorization _2star
520			_aIn much of modern fiction, it is the clothes that make the character. Garments embody personal and national histories. They convey wealth, status, aspiration, and morality (or a lack thereof). They suggest where characters have been and where they might be headed, as well as whether or not they are aware of their fate. At the Mercy of Their Clothes explores the agency of fashion in modern literature, its reflection of new relations between people and things, and its embodiment of a rapidly changing society confronted by war and cultural and economic upheaval. In some cases, people need garments to realize themselves. In other cases, the clothes control the person who wears them. Celia Marshik's study combines close readings of modernist and middlebrow works, a history of Britain in the early twentieth century, and the insights of thing theory. She focuses on four distinct categories of modern clothing: the evening gown, the mackintosh, the fancy dress costume, and secondhand attire. In their use of these clothes, we see authors negotiate shifting gender roles, weigh the value of individuality during national conflict, work through mortality, and depict changing class structures. Marshik's dynamic comparisons put Ulysses in conversation with Rebecca, Punch cartoons, articles in Vogue, and letters from consumers, illuminating opinions about specific garments and a widespread anxiety that people were no more than what they wore. Throughout her readings, Marshik emphasizes the persistent animation of clothing—and objectification of individuals—in early-twentieth-century literature and society. She argues that while artists and intellectuals celebrated the ability of modern individuals to remake themselves, a range of literary works and popular publications points to a lingering anxiety about how political, social, and economic conditions continued to constrain the individual.
538			_aMode of access: Internet via World Wide Web.
546			_aIn English.
588	0		_aDescription based on online resource; title from PDF title page (publisher's Web site, viewed 25. Jun 2024)
650		0	_aClothing and dress in literature.
650		0	_aClothing and dress _xSocial aspects _xHistory _xGreat Britain.
650		0	_aClothing and dress _xSocial aspects _zGreat Britain _xHistory.
650		0	_aEnglish literature _xHistory and criticism _x20th century.
650		0	_aEnglish literature _y20th century _xHistory and criticism.
650		0	_aFashion _xSocial aspects _xHistory _x20th century _xGreat Britain.
650		0	_aFashion _xSocial aspects _zGreat Britain _xHistory _y20th century.
650		0	_aIdentity (Psychology) in literature _xGreat Britain.
650		0	_aIdentity (Psychology) in literature.
650		0	_aModernism (Literature) _xGreat Britain.
650		0	_aModernism (Literature) _zGreat Britain.
650		7	_aLITERARY CRITICISM / European / English, Irish, Scottish, Welsh. _2bisacsh
850			_aIT-RoAPU
856	4	0	_uhttps://doi.org/10.7312/mars17504
856	4	0	_uhttps://www.degruyter.com/isbn/9780231542968
856	4	2	_3Cover _uhttps://www.degruyter.com/document/cover/isbn/9780231542968/original
942			_cEB
999			_c184048 _d184048